Nannacara anomala

If you’ve ever wanted a cichlid that won’t completely wreck your tank—but still has enough personality to not feel like a background fish—this is where acaras come in.

They’ve kind of built a reputation as the “easygoing” cichlid. The one you can throw into a community tank and call it a day.

And yeah… compared to a lot of cichlids, that’s mostly true.

But here’s where people get tripped up—
“peaceful” doesn’t mean predictable.

I’ve seen acaras live perfectly fine in planted community tanks for years… and I’ve also seen that same fish decide overnight it owns the entire tank.

So instead of giving you the usual copy-paste care sheet, this is going to be the real version—what they’re actually like to keep, where people mess up, and how to make them work long-term.

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What Are Acara Cichlids?

“Acara” isn’t a clean, neat category. It’s more of a hobby catch-all term that stuck around while scientists were busy reorganizing everything behind the scenes.

In the hobby, when people say “acara,” they’re usually talking about medium-sized South American cichlids that:

• Anywhere from 3-10 inches
• Have decent color
• Aren’t complete psychopaths (again… usually)

You’ll see fish from different genera all lumped together:

• Andinoacara (Blue Acara, Electric Blue Acara)
• Aequidens (Green Terror—kind of)
• Cleithracara (Keyhole Cichlid)
• Ivanacara (Zebra Acara)

So yeah, it’s a bit of a mess taxonomically. But from a hobby perspective, it works. They fill a similar role in a tank, and people treat them similarly.

Just don’t assume they all behave the same. That’s how people end up returning fish… or posting “why is my acara killing everything?” threads at 2am.

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Most Popular Acara Species

Blue Acara

• Size: 5–6 inches
• Temperament: Moderate, but manageable
• Difficulty: Beginner to intermediate

The Blue Acara is kind of the gateway drug into “real” cichlids.

They’ve got that classic cichlid personality—curious, interactive, always watching you—but they’re not out there trying to eliminate their tank mates for sport.

What people don’t expect:
They’re tougher than they look. You’ll hear people call them “delicate” because of their color, but in reality, they’re pretty forgiving. What does surprise people is how territorial they can get once they settle in. Not insane, but enough to keep smaller or timid fish on edge.

If you want more detail, this is one of those species worth having its own deep dive. There’s a lot more to them than just “blue fish, peaceful-ish.”

Electric Blue Acara Color Variant 

• Size: 5–6 inches
• Temperament: Generally peaceful for a cichlid
• Difficulty: Easy to moderate

This is the fish that made acaras explode in popularity.

Bright, almost glowing blue. Doesn’t look real half the time. And compared to most cichlids, it’s surprisingly chill.

What people don’t expect:
They’re not bulletproof. They’ve been bred for color, and that comes with trade-offs. You’ll see more sensitivity to poor water conditions compared to regular Blue Acaras.

Also, they grow faster than people think. That “cute 2-inch fish” turns into a chunky centerpiece before you know it.

If you’re serious about them, you’ll want a full guide just on Electric Blue Acaras. There’s a lot to getting them to thrive long-term.

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Green Terror

• Size: 8–10 inches
• Temperament: Aggressive, especially as adults
• Difficulty: Intermediate

Let’s clear something up—this fish earned its name.

Also, the name “Green Terror” gets thrown around loosely. Not every fish labeled that in a store is the same species, and some are way meaner than others.

What people don’t expect:
They don’t start out as terrors. Juveniles are often pretty chill. Then one day they decide they own the tank, the stand, and possibly your house.

If you treat them like a Blue Acara, you’re going to have problems. They’re in a different league behavior-wise.

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Keyhole Cichlid

• Size: 4–5 inches
• Temperament: Peaceful, almost shy
• Difficulty: Easy

This is the oddball of the group.

If most acaras are “mildly assertive,” the Keyhole is the guy in the corner hoping nobody notices him.

What people don’t expect:
They’re too peaceful sometimes. Put them with anything pushy, and they’ll just get bullied or outcompeted for food.

They’re great fish, but they need the right environment. Calm tank, non-aggressive tank mates, and a bit of cover.

If you’ve never kept them, they’re worth a dedicated look. They’re completely different from what people expect when they hear “cichlid.”

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Zebra Acara (Ivanacara adoketa)

• Size: 4–5 inches
• Temperament: Small but mean
• Difficulty: Advanced

This fish is what happens when something small has a massive attitude problem.

Absolutely stunning. One of the coolest dwarf cichlid-adjacent species out there.

What people don’t expect:
They’re not community fish. Not even close.

People see the size and think “oh, I can put this in a peaceful setup.” No. They’re hyper-territorial and can be brutal, especially in smaller tanks.

They’re incredible fish—but you need to respect what they are.

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Acara Temperament & Behavior

Are They Aggressive?

The honest answer: it depends on the species and the situation.

Most acaras fall into that middle ground:

• Not peaceful community fish
• Not full-blown killers

But they are cichlids. Which means:

• They establish territory
• They test boundaries
• They absolutely will throw hands if needed

The biggest mistake people make is assuming “semi-aggressive” means predictable. It doesn’t.

One Blue Acara might be chill. Another might decide your Corydoras are trespassing.

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Behavior in Community Tanks

In a well-planned tank, most acaras do great.

They:

• Cruise the tank
• Interact with you
• Occasionally posture at tank mates

But things change when:

• The tank is too small
• There’s no defined territory
• Tank mates are too weak or too aggressive

That’s when you start seeing stress, chasing, or worse.

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Pairing & Breeding

This is where things escalate.

Acaras that are “fine” in a community tank can flip a switch when they pair off.

• They claim territory
• They guard eggs aggressively
• They will push other fish around hard

It’s not unusual for a peaceful tank to turn into a war zone overnight once breeding behavior kicks in.

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Tank Setup for Acaras

Tank Size (Realistic)

Forget the bare minimum numbers you see everywhere.

• Single acara: 40–55 gallons minimum
• Pair: 55–75 gallons
• Community setup: 75+ gallons

Can you keep them in smaller tanks? Sure. For a while. Then you’ll wonder why everything’s stressed.

More space = fewer problems. Always.

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Aquascape

This is one of the few times where function matters more than aesthetics.

You want:

• Driftwood for structure
• Rocks to break line of sight
• Open swimming space

Plants? Yes, but don’t expect perfection. Some acaras will leave them alone. Others will redecorate like they’re on a home improvement show.

Sand substrate works great. They like to sift and dig.

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Filtration & Flow

You don’t need to overcomplicate this.

• Solid filtration (canister or HOB)
• Good oxygenation
• Moderate flow

They’re not river fish, but they do appreciate clean, moving water.

What matters most: consistency. Not chasing some perfect setup.

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Water Parameters

• Temperature: 74–80°F
• pH: 6.5–7.5
• Hardness: Moderate

Here’s the truth most people ignore:

Stability matters more than hitting perfect numbers.

Acaras adapt well if:

• Parameters are consistent
• Water is clean
• You’re not constantly messing with things

Common mistake:
Chasing pH with chemicals. That usually causes more harm than good.

Just keep your water changes consistent and don’t let things swing wildly.

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🐟 Tank Mates for Acara Cichlids (What Actually Works… and What Doesn’t)

Let’s get something out of the way right now—
Acaras are constantly labeled as “peaceful cichlids.”

That’s… mostly true.

But like most things in this hobby, it depends on the fish, the setup, and whether they’ve decided today is the day they run the tank.

I’ve kept them in community setups, planted tanks, and with other cichlids—and the difference between a great tank and a disaster usually comes down to tank mates.

So instead of giving you the same generic list you’ll find everywhere else, here’s what actually works.

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✅ Best Tank Mates (That Actually Work)

These are fish that consistently do well with acaras, not just in theory, but in real tanks.

Tetras (Medium-Sized Schooling Fish)

Think:

• Buenos Aires Tetras
• Bleeding Heart Tetras
• Larger Congo Tetras

These are honestly some of the best tank mates you can pick.

Why they work:

• Fast enough to avoid getting bullied
• Big enough not to be mistaken for food
• Add constant movement, which actually helps spread out aggression

I’ve run acaras with larger tetra groups, and it just works. The key is size and numbers—tiny tetras will disappear, and a group of five isn’t enough.

👉 If you’re going this route, commit to a proper school.

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Corydoras (With Some Caveats)

Yes, corys work—but not all situations are equal.

Why they work:

• They stay out of the acara’s lane (bottom vs mid-water)
• They’re armored and surprisingly tough

Where it goes wrong:

• During spawning, acaras can get territorial and push them around
• Smaller species can get stressed in tighter tanks

In a well-sized tank with space, I’ve seen this combo thrive. In a cramped setup? Not so much.

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Peaceful Dither Fish (Rainbows, Larger Rasboras)

Fish like:

• Rainbowfish
• Larger rasboras

These are underrated with acaras.

Why they work:

• Always moving = distraction for the acara
• Occupy different zones
• Add color without triggering aggression

This is one of those combos that just makes the tank feel “alive.”

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Other “Mellow” Cichlids (Carefully Chosen)

This is where it gets interesting.

Some combinations that can work:

• Keyhole Cichlids
• Certain Geophagus species
• Severums (in larger tanks)

Why they work:

• Similar temperament (not hyper-aggressive)
• Comparable size and presence

But here’s the deal—this only works when:

• The tank is big enough
• Territories are clearly defined
• You’re not mixing fish with wildly different personalities

When it works, it’s awesome. When it doesn’t… you’ll know quickly.

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⚠️ Fish That Can Work (But Might Bite You Later)

These are the ones people try—and sometimes they work… until they don’t.

Angelfish

This one surprises people.

It can work, especially with Electric Blue Acaras, but:

• Both species can get territorial
• Long fins can become targets
• Breeding = chaos

I’ve seen tanks where they coexist perfectly—and others where it slowly turns into a turf war.

👉 This is a “watch closely” pairing.

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Smaller Tetras

Neons, embers, cardinals…

Everyone wants this combo.

Sometimes it works.

Other times?
You wake up and your school is mysteriously… smaller.

Even “peaceful” acaras will opportunistically snack if the fish is small enough.

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Dwarf Cichlids (Apistos, Rams)

Sounds good on paper.

In reality:

• Territory overlap becomes an issue
• Breeding behavior clashes
• One species usually ends up stressed

You can make it work in a heavily structured tank, but it’s not something I’d recommend unless you know what you’re doing.

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Plecos

This one’s tricky.

Smaller plecos? Usually fine.

But:

• Larger plecos can become aggressive or territorial
• Some will invade spawning sites and get chased constantly

I’ve seen this go both ways depending on the individual fish.

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❌ Fish to Avoid (Unless You Like Problems)

This is where people get themselves into trouble.

Aggressive Cichlids

Think:

• Oscars
• Jack Dempseys
• Red Devils

This isn’t a “maybe.”

It’s a bad idea.

Your acara will either:

• Get bullied
• Get stressed
• Or spend its entire life hiding

Acaras are not built for that level of aggression.

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Tiny Nano Fish

Anything small enough to fit in their mouth is eventually going to be considered food.

Even if it works at first, it’s a ticking time bomb.

This includes:

• Chili rasboras
• Micro tetras
• Anything “nano”

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Fin-Nippers

Fish like:

• Tiger barbs
• Certain danios

These will make your acara miserable.

Constant stress, damaged fins, and a fish that never settles.

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Overly Territorial Bottom Dwellers

Some loaches and other bottom fish can clash with acaras, especially when territory comes into play.

It turns into:

• Constant chasing
• Stress on both sides
• No one really winning

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🧠 The Reality of Tank Mates with Acaras

Here’s the truth most care guides won’t tell you:

There is no “perfect” tank mate list.

You can have:

• The right fish
• In the right tank
• With the right setup

…and still end up with a problem fish.

Because at the end of the day, you’re dealing with cichlids.

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What Actually Matters More Than the Fish List

If you want success, focus on this:

• Tank size → bigger solves most problems
• Aquascape → breaks line of sight, creates territory
• Stocking balance → don’t overload one zone
• Observation → the most underrated skill in the hobby

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If you get those right, acaras are one of the easiest cichlids to build a community around.

If you don’t…
that “peaceful centerpiece fish” turns into the reason your tank isn’t working.

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Feeding & Growth

They’re not picky.

• Pellets (high-quality staple)
• Frozen foods (bloodworms, brine shrimp)
• Occasional live food

If you want good color and growth:

• Feed a varied diet
• Don’t overfeed
• Keep water clean

Common mistake:
Dumping food in like they’re starving. That leads to poor water quality fast.

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Common Problems

Aggression Issues

Usually caused by:

• Tank too small
• Poor layout
• Breeding behavior

Fix the environment, not just the fish.

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Color Loss

Often tied to:

• Stress
• Poor diet
• Bad water quality

Healthy acaras should look vibrant. If they’re dull, something’s off.

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Stress Behavior

Watch for:

• Hiding constantly
• Clamped fins
• Erratic swimming

These fish are normally interactive. If they’re not, something’s wrong.

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Misidentified Expectations

This is the big one.

People expect:

• Peaceful community fish

Reality:

• Mildly territorial cichlids with personalities

That mismatch causes most issues.

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Are Acaras Good for Beginners?

Yes… with a caveat.

If you:

• Have a properly sized tank
• Understand basic cichlid behavior
• Don’t expect a “set it and forget it” fish

Then yes, they’re a great entry point into cichlids.

If you’re trying to cram them into a 29-gallon community tank with guppies and hope for the best… no.

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Final Thoughts

Acaras sit in a really nice spot in the hobby.

They’re:

• More interesting than typical community fish
• Less chaotic than aggressive cichlids
• Visually striking without being impossible to keep

But they’re not plug-and-play fish. You need to respect what they are.

If you give them space, structure, and decent tank mates, they’ll reward you with some of the best behavior and interaction you can get in a freshwater tank.

If you don’t… they’ll remind you pretty quickly that they’re still cichlids.

And they’re very good at it.

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